Got out of room 101 and Pondicherry ASAP on the morning of the second as my clothes were beginning to develop a fine layer of mould due to the permi-damp. Got a state bus to Chennai…the best bus I got in the entire leg…basically as good as any bus in Britain..a pleasant surprise.
Once at Chennai bus stand got into some negotiations with some rickshaw drivers for transport. I was trying to get to the Egmore area of the city where I could find cheap accommodation ( there was a salvation army hostel there) and get the train to the airport the next day. The cheapest the rickshaw men would go was 150 rupees and when I told them I would just get the bus they said that would be 100 rupees…..I don’t think so fella …got the local bus for 10 rupees and was at Edmore station in about 20mins…..had read in the guide book that the rickshaw drivers in Chennai are amongst the most hard core barterers in the country and had been prepared for the encounter.
On the way out of the station got talking to a local guy who collected money from around the world and was asking me if I had any Uk currency he could have….( its usually the other way round people persistently wanting to trade you euros for rupees even though you explain they are useless in the uk) anyway this dude was laid back and insisted on giving me a ride on his motorcycle to the salvation army…….Indians are generally really good with stuff like that another reminder of the hospitality in the country.
The reception at the Salivation army hostel was empty when I got there and a quick look around some of the vacant and run down rooms on my own convinced me I didn’t want to stay there. The original plan was to stay in a dorm room with other pasty foreigners like I had in Mumbai ( although by now I had regained the healthy tan I had over the summer). Got the impression there was hardly anyone staying there though, so decided to walk back to the station and get a cheap room opposite so as to facilitate a simple exit the next afternoon.
After relaxing for a bit headed out to check out the sights of Chennai…have to say I was pretty disappointed….the areas I went to didn’t seem to have many redeeming features apart from the odd temple dotted about here and there ( photo) and the fact that it was Sunday afternoon meant most of the shops eateries etc were closed. Effectively got a local train for ten minutes to walk round in a traffic jam for 30 mins, did get a chance to see close up many of the shacks surrounding the station that were occupied by rickshaw drivers and their families ( see photo) felt a bit less put out by their hard bargaining earlier in the day…..
I did find a really good vegetarian restaurant back near the hotel and would spend most of my time the over the next day or so ( photo) …that evening it started to rain …reminded of how bad Indian streets get when there wet from my time in Jaipur ended up watching movies and test cricket in the hotel room for the rest of the night.
Next morning I was awoken by a sharp knock on the door at 630am. Ignored it…another knock again at 7.30...WTF my check out wasn’t until 2pm…opened the door to see a dwarf like man with a broom asking if I wanted the room to be cleaned …….“NO dude I don’t..its way to early and im leaving today anyway…..”
In a way I had brought the early morning disturbance on myself…had been tipping a lot in the last few days to use up surplus small bills and had tipped the porter who carried my bags into the hotel quite nicely…word had obviously spread around and the sweeper man was desperately looking for a tip……a few hours to early wondering if he had been waiting from first light till 6.30 to try his luck . Constant noise from hotel has been a constant theme in India I think by the end of the 7 weeks I had got used to it ( apart from when it knocks on your door) . Even managed to sleep through the constant public service announcements from the adjacent train station all night.
Didn’t do much the next day just got my affairs in order for the transit to Taiwan that evening…checked out of the hotel at 2pm and left my bag with them…wandered around the city for a couple of hours trying to squeeze the last drop of experience out of India.
I got the local train to the airport around 5 and then read and listened to music until check in….before I knew it I was on a plane heading to Kuala Lumpour and then on to Taipei….
Hadn’t done much at all in Chennai but was glad of some chill out time before getting myself jet lagged . Had mixed emotions in the departure lounge about leaving . Was sad to be going in a way, as you always feel like there is so much you cant see in such a big and varied country. I also felt relieved in a way too. I had survived India again , infact more intact this time than last ( no Amoebic dysentery this time!) felt like I had finished a long race, also excited about new experiences in the far east…
India Summary
What a country ..first time I came to India I described it as an assault on the senses…and the same can be said of this visit too. Each area offered a different vibe and set of challenges. Rajasthan and Goa were the highlights but also really enjoyed my extended stay in Mumbai as got to a great deal of the city I wouldn’t have got to if I hadn’t had such a great local guide in Kaveri. Kerala didn’t live up to expectations but that was in part due to bad planning by myself. New years in Pondicherry was hilarious…….I feel like the best thing I did on this trip was spend as much time as possible with Indians rather than other travellers. Where as my first trip to the sub continent was largely based around the historical sights and spiritual philosophies, this time round was much more interested in modern Indian culture and all its varieties…..At times it frustrated the hell out of me and there were moments when I thought I would break down and cry in desperation ( the 3 night back to back night bus marathon and forced imprisonment at Trivandrum station being examples) but there were also moments when my heart was filled with joy and awe at the sights and people I encountered…..Despite all its problems Indian people seem to know how to enjoy life, even though it is an exceptionally tough one for the majority of them by western standards.
So there it is…. my experience of India remains that you get all aspects of life good and bad in one sweet and foul smelling breath. Love or hate the place I would say it gives anyone who travels there from the west a heightened awareness of life. It is a country of extreme contrasts but just like the masala dishes I enjoyed so much there it is that different blend of spices that make the end meal so enjoyable…..
No comments:
Post a Comment